Tyler Andrews Aims for Historic Everest Ascent in 2025

American ultrarunner Tyler Andrews has set an ambitious target for 2025: to ascend Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen faster than anyone in history. The 34-year-old athlete is known for setting speed records on peaks such as Manaslu and Aconcagua, and he plans to make his attempt for the Fastest Known Time (FKT) via the South Col route this coming May. Andrews believes that achieving this record will significantly change the perception of climbing Everest, traditionally viewed as overcrowded and overly commercialized.

The upcoming ascent will begin at the Everest Base Camp in Nepal, with Andrews tackling the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and the Lhotse Face to reach the summit at 29,032 feet. This total journey spans 9.3 miles, along with an elevation gain of 11,434 feet. Andrews acknowledges that the crowded conditions during this climbing season could affect his attempt, but he remains determined to carve out his own path amid the throngs of climbers.

There are several established speed records for Everest, including Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa’s 2003 time of 10 hours, 56 minutes, 46 seconds, which was achieved with supplemental oxygen. Noteworthy is Kaji Sherpa’s record of 20 hours and 24 minutes from 1998, completed without supplemental oxygen. In 2017, Kilian Jornet set an impressive speed record of 26 hours in true alpine style. Andrews is eyeing Kaji Sherpa’s record as the benchmark for his own challenge.

Andrews plans to navigate the crowded climbing season by leveraging strategic timing, hoping to start his ascent either before or after the primary wave of climbers. He believes that by avoiding peak times, he can evade bottlenecks that often occur on this popular route. “The big climbing companies send all their teams up in the same couple of days,” he noted, suggesting that there are opportunities to circumvent the busy periods on the mountain.

While Andrews will be making a solo ascent, he is backed by a capable support team. He has partnered with Dawa Steven Sherpa, the CEO of Asian Trekking, to manage logistics and handling of permits. Andrews values this support, stating, “It takes a village,” which further highlights the importance of teamwork in high-altitude environments. His climbing partner, Chris Fisher, will assist in the lower sections of the route, particularly through the hazardous Khumbu Icefall, where he will act as Andrews’ pacer and support during this demanding trek.

In preparation for the challenging expedition, Andrews has been utilizing a hypoxic generator to simulate the effects of high altitude during his training. He is also refining his clothing system, collaborating with sponsor La Sportiva to ensure he is well-equipped to manage temperature fluctuations on the mountain. Andrews emphasizes the importance of layering, allowing for comfort and adaptability to unpredictable weather conditions.

Andrews aims to inspire others to take on significant challenges through his endeavor. “I hope that what I’m doing can inspire a handful of people to do something hard, because it’s tremendously rewarding and fulfilling,” he stated. By pushing the boundaries of mountain running and competing against previous generations, he hopes to reignite interest among high-level mountain athletes in pursuing speed records in the Himalayas. Andrews fully acknowledges the inherent risks associated with high-altitude climbs but asserts that seasoned athletes understand and respect the dangers they face, balancing ambition with caution.

With a history of accolades, including two-time Olympic Trials qualifier for the marathon and world champion ultrarunner, Andrews has already established an impressive portfolio of records. His journey began with a significant achievement in 2021 on Cotopaxi, followed by FKTs on Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. His recent success on Manaslu solidified his ambition, bringing him closer to the monumental task of conquering Everest in 2025. As he prepares for this ultimate challenge, Andrews stands poised to possibly rewrite history atop the world’s highest peak.